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Ladakh |
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Zanskar
the Virgin Vale:
About 20 kms. South of Rangdum stands the Pazila watershed across which
lies Zanskar, the most isolated of all the trans Himalayan Valleys. The
Panzila Top (4401 m) is the picturesque tableland adorned with two small
alpine lakes and surrounded by snow covered peaks. As the Zanskar road
winds down the steep slopes of the watershed to the head of the Stod
Valley, one of Zanskar's main tributary valleys, the majestic "Drang-Drung"
glacier looms into full view. A long and winding river of ice and snow,
the Drang-Drung" is perhaps the largest glacier in Ladakh, outside the
Siachen formation. It is from the cliff-like snout of this extensive
glacier that the Stod or Doda River, the main tributary of river Zanskar,
rises.
Zanskar comprises a tri-armed valley system
lying between the Great Himalayan Range and the Zanskar mountain; The
three arms radiate star-like towards the west, north and south from a
wide central expanse where the region's two principal drainage's meet
to form the main Zanskar River. It is mainly along the course of this
valley system that the region's 10,000 strong, mainly Buddhists
population lives. Spread over an estimated geographical area of 5000 sq.
kms. High rise, mountains and deep gorges surround Zanskar. The area
remains inaccessible for nearly 8 months a year due to heavy snowfall
resulting in closure of all the access passes, including the Penzi-la.
To-day, Zanskar has the distinction of being the least interfered with
microcosms of Ladakh, and one of the last few surviving cultural
satellites of Tibet. Within the mountain ramparts of this lost Shangrila
stand a number of ancient yet active monastic establishments. Some of
these religious foundations have evolved around remote meditation caves
believed to have been used by a succession of famous Buddhist saints for
prolonged meditation in pursuit of knowledge and enlightenment. The 240
km long Kargil-Padun road, of which the first 90 km stretch is paved,
remains opened from around mid July to early November. The J&K SRTC
operates a thrice weekly B-class bus service from Kargil. However groups
can charter A-Class or even Super-Deluxe buses to visit Zanskar,
including the interior places of interest like Strongdey, Zangla and
Karsha. Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can also be hired at Kargil. During June
and early July, prior to opening of the road, it is recommended to walk
into Zanskar from panikhar or Parkachik onwards. In June, the summer is
at its height in the region and the climate is ideal for trekking along
the route free from vehicular traffic of any kind and when the
countryside is freshly rejuvenated into life after months of frigid
dormancy. The tourist Complex at Padum provides furnished rooms. There
is catering arrangement in the complex, while camping place nearby is
available for budget tourists travelling with personal tents. Padum town
has several private hotels where rooms with basic facilities are
available. At karsha dormitory accommodation is available in the newly
build inn where basic vegetarian food is also provided. In the distant
villages like Strongdey, Zangla, Sani etc., Accommodation can be sought
from the villagers either on payment or in exchange of a suitable gift.
Some monasteries may also take in guests, through more as a gesture of
goodwill than on purely commercial consideration. Of course the guest is
expected to compensate the monastery suitably. |
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Padum:
Once the capital of the ancient kingdom of
Zanskar, Padum(3505 m) is the present day administrative headquarters of
the region. With a population of nearly 1500, Padum can be described as
the most populous settlement of Zanskar, otherwise a very scarcely
inhabited valley. Incidentally, it is only in Padum that there is a
community of Muslims constituting nearly half the township's population,
its origin in the area dating from mid 17th century. Lately, Padum has
become a famous as a major trekking base and a popular tourist
destination. Several places of tourist interest in the vicinity of the
township can be visited in the course of entertaining walks. The nearest
monument is a set of ancient rock carving on a huge boulder near the
river bank, just below the old township. These dates from the 8th
century and provide epigraphic evidence that the region was under the
influence of North Indian Buddhism since ancient times. The Starrimo
Monastery with about 30 resident monks clings to a tree-covered ridge
above the old town. Across the expanse of cultivation lies the old
village of Pibiting, dominated by its picturesque hilltop monastery, a
superb manifestation of stupa architecture. |
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Stongdey:
The monastery
of Stongdey lies 18 kms. To the north of Padum, on
the road leading to Zangla. An old foundation
associated with the Tibetan Yogi, Marpa, Stongdey is
now the second largest monastic establishment of
Zanskar, inhabited by the resident community of
about 60 Gelukpa monks. The sprawling whitewashed
complex has a number of temples, each a repository
of the region's rich monastic legacy. Stongdey can
be reached by foot in about 4 hours along the
recently laid rough road. The climb up to the
monastery is rather strenuous, but it is worth the
trouble for the breathtaking scenery of the valley
available from here. |
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Zangla:
Lying deep in the northern arm of Zanskar at the end of the 35 km. Long
rough road from Padum, Zangla was being ruled by a titular king till his
death a few years back. The old castle now in ruins except from a small
chappel, occupies a hill, overlooking the desertic valley below. Nearby
is the old Nunnery worth a visit for the austere life style of the small
monastic community of nuns. An old monastery situated in the nearby
village of Tsa-zar has exquisite frescos that should be missed. The
village lies mid-way between Stongdey and Zangla. Zangla is the nodal
point on the popular Padum-Strongdey-Zangla-Karsha-Padum round trip,
which covers most of the cultural sites of Zanskar. The old rope
suspension bridge spanning the tumultuous Zanskar near Zangla- a rare
feat of folk engineering - is no more in use, but still visible. The
river is now crossed by a temporary footbridge for approaching the left
bank along which the trail to Karsha follows. Zangla is also the
take-off point for the Padum-Markha valley treks. |
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